The author in front of his stomach's destination, recently.

In certain cities, I become afflicted with gastronomic envy. In Montreal, for example, I suffer from bagel envy, and in Madrid, it’s a debilitating case of envidia de jamón. On my annual trip to Vancouver, there’s always something that causes me to turn the colour of a large, vegetable-shilling fellow who favours togas. Here are three reasons why I love Vancouver.

Coffee Culture
Compared to Vancouver, the rest of Canada is basically decaf. From the ubiquitous Starbucks, to local chains such as Blenz and Bean Around the World, to dozens of independents, there are an inconceivable number of coffee shops in this city. And they’re all busy, all the time.

The leader of the pack is Caffè Artigiano, a small chain with a big following. Their stores are now equipped with the latest java technology: $11,000 Clover machines that brew individual cups of joe. For the price of lunch at Tim Horton’s, you can get 12 ounces of coffee distilled from rare and exclusive beans that come with the kind of hyperbolic tasting notes usually reserved for wine. I prefer their Americano, a dark, rich, bitter affair that grabs you in a Darth Vader chokehold and takes you to the dark side. They also make pretty lattes, if you’re into that sort of thing.

The new barista on the block can be found at Café Medina, a hip Belgian coffee house in Crosstown, the rapidly gentrifying neighbourhood between downtown and the notorious Eastside. It’s a beautiful space – lofty ceilings, exposed brick, polished wood tables – the perfect spot to linger with a weekend paper. For $6, you get a coffee of your choice, one small, but insanely delicious waffle – think brioche meets donut – and a homemade topping like dark chocolate sauce or fig-orange marmalade. If you’re heading to Chinatown after, Hastings should be avoided at all costs. Take Pender, keep your wits about you, and if you are of a delicate constitution, don’t peer down the alleyways. Bonne chance!

Turning Japanese
While there is no shortage of Japanese restaurants in Toronto, most of them are cut from the same cloth. You know, those boring McSushi joints that never think outside of the bento box. In Vancouver, it’s a much different story. Authenticity is critical, as restaurants must cater to the sizable Japanese Diaspora, and whether it’s sushi, izakaya, okonomiyaki or noodle soup, they’re focused and deliver the goods. There’s even a Japanese hot dog cart!

In front of Sutton Place Wine Merchant – a beautiful wine shop, by the way - is the legendary Japa Dog. The links and buns are no different than your average street meat vendor, but the toppings include daikon, nori, wasabi mayo and Japanese 7-spice. Pre-set dogs are available, like the Misomayo, a juicy smoked turkey sausage topped with radish sprouts, miso-sesame sauce and Kewpie mayonnaise, which is basically Hellmann’s with a hit of M.S.G. Can you say umami on a bun?!?

One of the city’s most popular restaurants, Japanese or otherwise, is Kintaro Ramen (788 Denman St., 604-682-7568), a tiny noodle joint in the West End. To capitalize on the overflow, chef-owner Daiji Mastubara opened Motomachi Shokudo (740 Denman St., 604-609-0310) down the street. And while both restaurants offer a comforting bowl of noodle soup, the new place is definitely not Kintaro II.

Where Kintaro is worn, mismatched and grubby, Motomachi has glazed concrete, recycled wood and a handsome communal table sprouting bundles of wheat. And instead of Kintaro’s heavy (and, to some, salty and greasy) pork bone broth, Motomachi features a lighter, more refined, yet equally flavourful broth made from chicken bones. I had the popular Bamboo Charcoal Dark Miso Ramen, which gets its name from a healthy dose of charcoal powder, a purported digestive aid and detoxifier. While the fuliginous soup looked disturbingly like someone’s chain-smoking granny tipped her ashtray into the stockpot, it tasted wonderfully smoky without masking the flavour of the intense broth. The bowl was filled with chewy ramen, grilled pork, soft-boiled egg and julienne leek with white pepper delivering a lick of heat. Having patronized both of Matsubara’s restaurants, I would give the nod to the new spot. It may not be as authentic, but they make a truly stunning bowl of noodle soup.

PNW or Pacific Northwest
Long before the locavore movement took hold in Ontario, Vancouver chefs were celebrating the local bounty using classic European technique, incorporating Asian flavours and forging a unique gastronomic identity all their own. It has translated into a vibrant dining scene, where chefs take risks, diners are savvy and you can get a glass of premium Okanagan pinot gris at a Thai restaurant.

It provides fertile ground for restaurants like Aurora Bistro, a fun, casual spot serving "modern Canadian cuisine". Chef-owner Jeff Van Geest’s menu sways with the seasons, supports local farmers and features sustainable seafood approved by Ocean Wise. The BC -only wine list is packed with boutique gems including Foxtrot Pinot Noir 2004, the inaugural bottling of this hard-to-find pinot. (See Sutton Place Wine Merchant above.)

Appetizers are divided into two sizes. Under “small”, there was a hunk of succulent albacore tuna poached in olive oil atop navy beans dressed in a tangy smoked tomato vinaigrette. “Medium” plates included a fat-framed slice of pork terrine made by a black belt in charcuterie. Main course portions were on the small side, but they left enough room to enjoy dessert without having to adjust the belt. Pacific ling cod, like it’s Atlantic cousin, may not be the most flavourful fish, but a nutty brown butter sauce sharpened with sherry vinegar gave it a boost; a crispy mussel fritter and toothsome wheat berry and apple “risotto” were truly original sides. Made with Fraser Valley nuts, a very French hazelnut tart was crowned with a sublime scoop of maple ice cream. Modern Canadian cuisine, indeed.

Related Articles: Gremotraveler's Vancouver Stop-Over, Interview with Vikram Vij,  Eric Vellend's Vancouver (2006), Jamie Maw's Vancouver I (g065)
 

Eric Vellend was a chef for ten years before trading in his knives for a laptop. He has been the food columnist at the City Centre Mirror since 2004, and his work has appeared in City Bites, Toronto Life, The Globe and Mail, and The Toronto Star. In the recently published 1001 Foods To Die For , Eric wrote the chapter on soups and salads. Find more of Eric's articles from his extensive gastro-travels in Spain to his exotic spice trail anecdotes on at Gremolata's archives.

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