Tampa Bay: The Beach Side
by Gremotraveler
Read Tampa Bay: The City Side here

Before you start exploring the Tampa Bay area, you will need a place to stay. The Gulf Coast side of the region is your best bet. Two historic resorts stand out amongst all others with one catering to the sun and sand while the other is about rediscovering yourself. First off, you have the famous Don CeSar Beach Resort. The hotel was built by Thomas Rowe at a cost of $1.2 million and opened on January 16, 1928. Rowe named it Don Ce-Sar after Don Caesar DeBazan, the hero of William Vincent Wallace's opera Maritana. It is nicknamed the Pink Lady or the Pink Palace and is a landmark along the skyline based by white sands and palm trees. If the beach is your thing, then you have to experience this hotel at least once in your life.

For awhile the Don reigned as the hot spot for high society including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Clarence Darrow, Lou Gehrig and even Al Capone. Then, a fatal combination occurred: the Depression, World War II and Rowe's death. For a period of time the hotel was converted into a convalescent center for battle-fatigued World War II airmen. After the war, the Veterans Administration stripped it for use as a regional office, later moving out in 1967, unable to afford necessary repairs. The abandoned building became a graffiti canvas, doomed for the wrecking ball. Fortunately, a diligent preservation group rescued the Don CeSar by locating a buyer who shared Rowe's vision of grandeur. In 1973, the resort re-opened as a luxury resort with a continued commitment to revitalization allowing the Don CeSar to reign as the Pink Castle on Florida's Gulf Coast.

Further north, on the bay side of Pinellas County, is probably North America’s oldest spa community, Safety Harbor. The 2,000-year-old Espiritu Santo Springs, meaning “Springs of the Holy Spirit,” were a sacred site for the local Toccobaga and Timucuan native tribes in the 1400s, where they fished and bathed in their sparkling waters. In 1539, Hernando de Soto discovered the springs and went so far as to declare the springs “The Fountain of Youth.” During the 1850s, Colonel William J. Bailey purchased the springs from the government and in the early 1900s began bottling and labelling the various spring waters according to their specific “healing powers,” and shipped them to eager customers around the world. Today, the Safety Harbor Resort and Spa is located on the very site of these historic springs and since 1936, has been welcoming guests to stay and bath in the healing waters. Located mid-way between the bustle of Tampa and the beaches of Clearwater, Safety Harbor is probably one of Florida’s greatest small towns. The resort, located at the end of Main Street, is the anchor point of the community. In the morning before the sun drives you to the pool, you can step out the front lobby and casually walk the quaint street discovering local artisans, bakeries, and cafes. Every Friday, the community holds an organic market in the town square, just two blocks from the hotel. Here, local organic farmers from across Florida’s West Coast share their fresh produce, meat, and those little gooey brownies your mom used to make. Every third Friday, Main Street is closed off as a pedestrian mall and offers a street festival celebrating local shopping, dining, and entertainment from 6:00 - 9:00 pm. The locals love to meet guests of the resort and share their pride in the history of their small town.

While on Main Street, be sure to check out Wine Styles, the town’s Wine Bar and part of a growing US chain. The shop is cozy and inviting with a hand-picked selection of wine allowing their patrons to try and explore new vintages on an ongoing basis. They have special tastings and events each night and the locals love it. Pop in on Friday night and take part in their Poker Night. Each guest receives 4 poker chips and a single playing card. They redeem each chip for their choice of wine (4 oz pour) and receive another playing card with each choice. When completed, each guest has 5 playing cards and at 9pm, the best 5 card stud poker hand in house wins a complimentary bottle of wine! Vegas, take some notes.

If you are looking for a wider selection to find that special bottle to bring home, check out Ed’s Fine Wines in Safety Harbor. Leaving the cold Winters of Ontario, Ed and Perry Giancola opened the shop offering great wines at affordable prices. They are passionate about wine, and are available to educate and direct you in finding the perfect wines for your palette. Why is it a must-stop on your trip to the Gulf Coast? A bottle of Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne costs $25.99. Enough said.

With a bottle of bubbly, it is time to check out the local seafood. Grouper is by far the most famous and controversial fish in the area. Once plentiful, grouper stocks in the area have dwindled in recent years. Unfortunately, the famous “Grouper Sandwich” has become an icon of food for coastal areas in Pinellas County. In 2006, a news story exposed that in many cases, the highly priced grouper dishes in some of the area’s finest restaurants turned out to be Talipia, a cheaper fish which can be easily mistaken by tourists as grouper. The article caused an uproar in the local dining scene as patrons began to question what was really on the menu. A test by the award-winning St. Petersburg Times newspaper concluded that of 11 restaurants featuring grouper, six served a cheaper fish instead. While the debate continues, one should still try a Grouper Sandwich while on the coast. Harvey's 4th Street Grill (3121 4th St. North) in St-Petersburg is a well-known local seafood haunt. They still use local grouper in their signature Grouper Sandwich with slaw. Oh yeah, they also passed the St-Petersburg Times test.

Whether you prefer a fast-paced urban setting or a relaxed beachfront lifestyle, Tampa Bay offers the best of both worlds.

RELATED ARTICLES: Tampa Bay: The City Side, Orlando for Grownups, Winter Park.

The Gremotraveller is a Toronto-based businessman who frequently flies and has lots of time in between meetings.