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Szabo and Szabo On Wine British Wine Goddess Jancis Robinson recently heaped thanks on John and Zoltan Szabo (no relation) for guiding her through her last Canadian visit. This is no small thing for those who follow the all things oenophillic. Gremolata caught up to the friends in wine recently to find out what's in their glasses...
Gremolata: What's new? What have you been up to in the last year or so? Zoltan Szabo: Tons happening! John & I have been appointed consulting wine directors of the Windsor Arms. Chef Michael Pataran had taken over and we are indeed looking forward to rocking the world. We'll be opening a new, fine dining resto with Pataran's Asian inspired cuisine and building a wine list with over 1,500 labels with the aim to get a Wine Spectator Grand Award... John Szabo: The industry is exploding, with dramatic increase in interest in wine across Canada. Restaurateurs are also realizing the benefits of a more serious beverage program and the need to hire professionals to do the job, whether in house or out-sourced. We have been approached by lots of great restaurants to work together on increasing profits through a more interesting wine list and better trained staff. The Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers' course continues to gain momentum, with a full class in both the George Brown and Niagara College locations. I enjoy teaching the courses a great deal. Other than that, lots of travel to wine country around the world, including Le Marche, Italy, Washington State, Chile, Spain, and of course Hungary to visit my little vineyard and taste my soon-to-be-released wine.... G: What's going on with your wine, John? John: I picked my third vintage this past October, which was a lot of fun. Conditions were near perfect. I made a special vineyard selection in one of our best sites, about two barrels worth (50 cases), that I am very excited about. Should be my finest wine yet, from 100% Kékfrankos, the grape of the future. Better reserve your case now! I decided not to release my first vintage, the 2004, as I didn't feel it represents the quality that I want to sign my name to. Its not a bad wine, quite drinkable in fact - Tony Aspler and Zoltan liked it - but as my inaugural wine it lacks something. So, I'll sell it exclusively in Hungary under a second label. My 2005 wines, two single vineyard expressions, will be out in late spring here in Canada. G: What "new" regions should savvy wine drinkers look to in 2007? Zoltan: Niagara, big time. Riesling, especially. Wines from Ancient Nemea of Greece made from Agiorgitiko and the highly minerally and piercingly acidic whites of the island Santorini made from Assyrtico. John: Check out Carmenere from Chile, Malbec from Argentina, Riesling from Niagara, Pinot Gris from BC, Xynomavro from Northern Greece, Syrah from the Walla Walla Valley, Verdicchio from Le Marche, Nero d'Avola from Sicily, Gruner Veltliner from Austria, the list goes on and on... I like to champion the off-the beaten track specialties unique to each country or region. They often represent great value, offer something different to consumers and highlight what is unique about each wine growing region. G: What wines have you most enjoyed in the last month? Anything stand out? Zoltan: Thomas Bachelder's Le Clos Jordanne Chardonnays and Pinots are truly magnificent. Bachelder is God's gift to Niagara! The purity and intensity of these wines are incredible. Most are fairly high alcohol, but that does not show as here's so much everything else going on. John: I agree with Zoltan, the Clos Jordanne Pinot are some of the most exiting to emerge from Niagara in years. Those who have attended my courses on Italian wine know about my generally negative impressions of the white Italian grape Trebbiano, but I am happy to report that my views have changed after having tasted two extraordinary trebbianos d'Abruzzo in New York last week. Curious, kinky, fully oxidized style with so many technical faults that you simply have to admire their individuality. Full marks for plain weirdness (for the record, they were from Valentini and Emidio Pepe). G: Jancis Robinson said very nice things about the two of you in her Financial Times column on Canadian wine. What was it like hanging out with her? John: She is first class, elegant, polite, brilliant and with a deceptively sharp sense of (very dry) humour. I would hang out with her anytime. She was kind enough to publish a short report on Chile that I wrote after my visit there in December, which caused a bit of a stir. Zoltan: Jancis rocks! G: Apart from The Clos Jordanne, what else is going on in Ontario wine? Do you think we'll see some of the newer Prince Edward County wines available this year? Have you tasted anything interesting and local? Zoltan: Norm Hardie, Huff, Renegade Sullivan's wines; they all have great promise. John: It's still early, but stay tuned for Chardonnay and Pinot from the like of Hardie, Rosehall Run, Huff Estates and the Grange in Prince Edward. There are others, no doubt , so it's high time I got back there for some investigative tasting! G: Zoltan, you made a trip to the Far East last summer to promote Canadian wines. What was it exactly, and are doing anything like that again Zoltan: It was an outstanding trip organised by Rudy Guo of Spirit of Hospitality with the help of the Hong Kong Tourism Board and assisted by the Government of Canada. Shanghai is my favourite city in he world! We also had a promo affair at the Royal Garden Hotel in Hong Kong. Patrick Lin was the Sous and nowadays he's at the Soho Metropolitan n Toronto. My partners in crime where Lynn Crawford, Anthony Walsh, Brad Long and Rob Clark, who's from C & Nu Restaurants in Vancouver; all kick-ass people and friends of mine. The best chefs around in my view... Well, OK, add Pataran to the list as well.! We are planning to go to Tokyo this year to do same, promote Canadian gastro culture, indigenous food, wines and the best of people in the trade. Oh and on Wednesday, February 21st, we'll be showcasing Austro-Hungarian wines at Fat Cat Bistro on Roncesvalles. Reserve now! It's only $40 all inclusive! * * * Find out more about John Szabo at http://www.thecva.ca Find out more about Zoltan Szabo at http://www.zoltanszabo.ca | ||
