| Fresh Food | Chow for Now with Michele Chandler |
| Fresh Food | Chow for Now with Michele Chandler |
| Gremolata Regulars |  Chow for Now with Michele Chandler: Serrano HamYa Man – Jamon…. The pig has landed, or at least the serrano ham, and we are rejoicing here in Canada. Thanks to the intense efforts of Serrano Imports and Spanish producer Campofrio, Canadians are once again allowed to eat Spanish cured pork. In some foodie circles, serrano ham, a.k.a jamon Serrano, is considered the ne plus ultra of cured meat products. However, Canada has forbidden importation of all Spanish meat for more than 50 years. The Canadian Food Inspection Agency (CFIA) created standards a half-a-century ago that were perceived as insurmountable by Spanish suppliers. It took over two years, and much convincing of both the Serrano producer and the CFIA, that it would be beneficial to all concerned that the product should be brought to Canada. Michael Tkaczuk, President of Serrano Imports, worked tirelessly with both entities to get the product to the Canadian market. “We talked to chefs across the country, and knew it would be worthwhile to import,” Michael explained. “The CFIA were great to work with. It was a huge learning curve for everyone.”  The name serrano comes from sierra, or mountain – the topographical region the hams come from. Andalusia is the original home of the white, fattened pigs that roamed its hillsides. Many artisanal producers in the area continue to cure the product the old fashioned way, in window pane-less sheds, allowing air to dry the product over a four-season period. However, for commercial export, Campofrio has been able to replicate the process in its manufacturing plants.There are many standards separating serrano from other types of ham, but one of the most stringent is the pig’s diet. The animal must consume a minimum of 50% cereal in its feed, but the rest of its diet consists of beets, sunflowers, sugar and soy. These ingredients assist in the product’s final flavours and aromas. Once slaughtered, the ham is inspected and classified, and a “V” is cut on the leg to denote that it is the right quality. Another heat stamp is applied on the skin by the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food. The ham is then layered in vats and covered in coarse sea salt for about seven days This begins the preservation process, with the rule of thumb being one day in salt per kilo of ham for salting purposes. Temperatures are maintained between 5 to 10 degrees Celsius, approximating the same temperature as a Spanish winter. The ham is then brushed and washed and hung by its hoof. Following the seasons, the climatic control replicates early spring in Spain – low humidity and low temperature. Over a seven month period, the temperature and the humidity are slowly raised to a maximum of 33 degrees Celsius. During this period the ham “sweats” and loses about 30 to 35% of its mass. The hams is pierced and checked (traditionally done with a cow splinter bone) to make sure that quality and preservation are intact. Seasonally, in the process, we are now at the end of summer. The serrano is then moved into an aging cellar and left for a minimum of eight months. This time period is actually decided on a ham-by-ham basis. This is a great time for the product. The subtle flavours of the serrano develop, and – get this – some of the saturated fats are converted into monosaturated fats. Hey, this ham is even good for you. The quintessential use of serrano is in the Spanish tapas culture. A leg is often found on the bar, where the proprietor slices pieces off for his or her patrons in on-demand. Tkaczuk is trying to promote this culture here in Canada. “The ham is best tasted at room temperature. Leaving a slice of Serrano on your tongue will melt the fat and produce the sweet flavour it is known for,” he suggests. It is safe to keep the whole ham on a stand, unrefrigerated, as long as a few precautions are taken. A clean, long knife should be used to slice straight across the top of the ham, going with the grain. After the cut has been made, the exposed meat should be well coated with lard or oil to prevent contact with the air. Then a piece of cheesecloth should be applied over the ham for further protection. It is not recommended to use serrano where a recipe calls for cooking the product – high heat destroys the subtlety of the flavours. If you want to add some, mix in some serrano just before serving, and allow the heat of the cooked dish to release the aromas and flavours. Serrano is now readily available at a number of locations across the city. You can purchase a whole ham, both bone in and bone out. Stands are also available for sale so that you too can keep a ham on hand for ready tapas. Please contact Michael Tkaczuk directly at 416 929 7756 or email mike@catchfinefoods.com for your nearest retailer. Happy tapas! Michele Michele Chandler started her food career at the Hazelton Café and Fentons – a rich learning environment that encouraged her to further her hospitality education. She graduated from Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration, enhancing her experience with seasonal work at Stadlanders, L’Hotel, and The Four Seasons. Michele also taught quantity cooking while Cornell was in session. Her first job took her to Hilton Canada in Montréal, but she had the most fun cruising the Atwater and Jean-Talon Markets on the weekends, and learning what real bagels are. She realized quickly that you can’t quell passion easily and wanted to share it with others, so Michele and a partner opened a tour company called Unique Routes, specializing in experiential and novel jaunts for small groups of women. Tours included a cheese tour of Paris and a day of walking the markets under the Brooklyn Bridge. These experiences drove Michele to pursue a writing career, specializing in culinary tourism. Her writing credits include NOW Magazine, Saturday Night and corporate and not-for-profit communications. |
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Serrano Ham photo by Camilla Pucholt Photography.
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