Throughout my recent (and first ever) trip to Chile I asked each winemaker I met to say a few words about the country. I said "Tell me something that is so Chile!" The answer was "The Andean Condor, the national bird of Chile; Eastern Island and its famous statues; San Pedro de Atakama, the desert in the North with the clearest sky in the world, with no rain for the last 500 years, and the new James Bond movie being filmed there as we speak; the glaciers of the Andes in the South (which may vanish in 15 years or so due to global warming); Torres del Paine in Patagonia, Chile's National Park; the picturesque Valparaiso on the Pacific Ocean; and (finally!) Chile's great grape Carmenere".

To this I would add Pisco Sour. ...And BBQ!

Pisco, my new favourite cocktail/aperitif, Pisco is apparently made from Moscatel de Setubal and is double distilled. Fresh squeezed lemon and sugar is used, stirred and shaken over ice to make a tonic. Ah... refreshing and happy Pisco Sour!

As if this wasn't enough, Chileans love barbecuing! And so do I! I blended in the culture perfectly, and got along so well with the people; I just loved everything there for a week!

Harvest season was full on, which meant gorgeous weather. I attempted to swim in the Ocean while in Valparaiso, but Mr. Humboldt (actually the name of the cold current in the Pacific) made me shy away from it... The cold water plays a very important role in grape growing and moderating temperatures - a crucial factor in Chilean viticulture.

I spent most of my time in the wine areas surrounding the capital Santiago. Within two hours of the city of driving range you'll find: Maipo, Colchagua, Aconcagua and Casablanca. Even so, my friends, I can say that Chile is indeed a fine country with extreme weather conditions, glorious geographic features, rural, rich cuisine based on freshest of seafood and beef, let's not forget very fine wines ...and the warmest of all people!

The wine industry is dynamic and flourishing, producing some of the world's best value buys, as well as some ultra premium juice that could quality-wise compete with any wines made anywhere! ...And I have heard the Carmenere being mistaken for Merlot in the past story soooo many times! Point in fact is that Carmenere, as the flagship grape in Chile, capable of producing some truly distinct and outstanding wines. As I kept hearing: "a lot less mistakes are made in winemaking today".

There's much buzz about the cool sites of Leyda Valley nowadays with some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs coming from there. There is Pinot Noir planted and grown successfully as well, among other cooler climate-favouring varieties.

Fun times in Chile! And I simply can't resist not to say it, there are some of the most beautiful looking women there too. Ooh la la!

I must give a warm thank you to Wines of Chile and Forefront Communications for putting up with me. Kudos to the lovely Sandy Kurbis.

Below are some of my wineries-visited-observations, tasting notes and such. I had the pleasure of tasting the following with two of Toronto's finest young sommeliers: Sarah d'Amato from The Four Seasons and Jacob Luksic (who comes from a grand old Chilean family) from The Royal York.

TASTING NOTES: CHILE MARCH 2008

Vina San Esteban
Small family operation in the Aconcagua Valley with about 130,000 cases per year production. Among their vineyards there's a historic site at 920 m above sea level with recent discoveries of stone carvings dating 2,000 years ago.
The symbol on the Almaviva label was found here and gave the inspiration to its makers. Some very good reds here.

2006 Carmenere Gran Reserva "In Situ"
There's 5% of Syrah and 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon blended. Intense nose of currants, cherries and herbal. Full, juicy and flavoursome with chewy tannins and a long, warm finish. 87

2006 Laguna del Inca, "in Situ"
Laguna del Inca is a lake located 3,000 high up in the Andes Mountains, the source to the Aconcagua River. Legend has it that an Inca princess died the night before her wedding and was burried in the lake. The water turned emerald, the colour of her eyes...Blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Sangiovese. Aromas and flavours of kirsch, cassis, spice and floral. Complex with a gorgeous, velvety texture. 89

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva
There's an interesting mineral aroma and flavour component. Medium to full bodied with integrated tannins and a great finish. 88

Errazuriz
Est. 1870 by Don Maximiano. They own approx. 1,500 hectares of vineyard land across Chile's grape growing areas.
Current owner is visionary Eduardo Chadwick.

2005 Sena
Grapes come from biodynamic vineyard in Aconcagua Valley. Cabernet & Merlot based Bordeaux blend. Multi-layered bouquet of raspberry, red plum, currants, pomegranate, herbal, floral, nutmeg. Full bodied and well balanced. Elegant. Needs a little time in bottle to show its "real face". 91

2005 KAI
Carmenere with 5% of Syrah blended. Cassis, mint, pine resin, cherries and cinnamon. Substantial palate with smooth tannins and juicy fruit finish. Top notch Carmenere! 90

2005 Shiraz La Cumbre
Grapes come from the Don Maximiano Estate in Aconcagua. Plums, blue fruit, smoke, grilled beef, deep spice, cardamom, peppercorn and tropical forest aromas. Full bodied and very well balanced. A red showing the incredible potential of the Aconcagua to produce stellar, world class Shiraz! 92

2005 Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve
Very Bordeaux-like. Full and generous with just a kiss of tannins. Elegant! 90

Concha Y Toro
Eighth largest winery in the world with more than 20 million cases per year production, owned by 2 families. They have 1,000 employees, among them His Majesty, Lucifer...he is security guard and you can spot him in "Castillero Del Diablo" where he is protecting the library stock. (See Sarah and I pictured at right.)

2007 Sauvignon Blanc Terrunyo
Made from Casablanca Valley fruit. Lime, green tropical fruit, pomelo, fresh mint aromas. Intense and zesty with a long herbal, mineral finish. 88

2005 Don Melchor
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Puente Alto vineyard in Alto Maipo. 80 years old vines, crop as low as 3 To./Ha. Dense nose of black fruit, fresh herbs, dark chocolate, earth and leather. Full bodied and very well balanced. A wine with lots of character. Bordeaux meets Tuscany. 90/91

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Terrunyo
Made from grapes coming from two single vineyards in Alto Maipo. Cassis, eucalyptus, exotic, floral nose. Voluptuous with chunky tannins and lots of sweet and juicy fruit flavours and great length. 89/90

Perez Cruz
Most of vineyards located in the Maipo Valley.

2005 Liguai
"Liguai" = fortune teller in native language. Rich bouquet of cassis and boldo, fresh herbs with underlying exotic spices. Full and smooth. Just delicious! 90

2005 Quelem Special Selection
"Quelem" = hill or slope. Made from "under dog" Bordeaux varieties Petit Verdot, Carmenere and Cot (Malbec). Blueberry, plums, currants, sweet herbs and spicy oak. Full and soft with a very long finish. 89

Tarapaca
"Head office" is in Maipo. Californian winemaker here with a great sense of humour. Former UC Davis grad. In charge of Tarapaca's upper end wines, blending and bottling process. His favourite quote "Perfection is boring" ...1 million cases per year production. Southern Sun Wine Group is the umbrella company.

2006 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer
Botrytis affected, tropical fruit with great acidity and candied pineapple finish. 87

2005 Zavata
Reminds me of Amarone! Raisinated red and black fruit with interesting accents of sauna cedar and Cuban hand rolled. A show wine! 90

2007 Natura
A serious, beefy red with muscular tannins. 88

Anakena
The name of the winery means "bird cave" in Rapanui (Easter Island) culture. 300,000 cases of wine produced here every year.

2007 Pinot Noir Ona
Aromatic, floral, herbal nose. Flavoursome and fresh with bright red berry finish. 88

2007 Pinot Noir
Grapes come from single vineyard in Maule Valley. Red plum, red currant, spice, minerals and earth. Fresh and spicy, savoury. Outstanding value! Must buy it by the case! 89

2007 Viognier
Tropical fruit, nectarine, pine, spearmint and wax, some resin. Medium bodied with good acidity. I wanna hug this wine! 89

2006 Malbec Ona
Meaty, chewy with plenty of flavour. Very good. 88

Montgras
Fairy new winery, in biz since 1993, making about 600,000 cases of wine per year.

2006 Minquen
Mostly Cab Sauv. Just bottled. An impressive and concentrated red. It will need a little time in bottle to show its full "stamina". 89-90

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Intriga
Gorgeous label! Rich nose of red and black fruit, coffee, cacao, liquorice. Full with integrated tannins. Stunning value! Just above $20! 90

2006 Syrah Antu Minquen
The Minque Vineyard is in Colchagua Valley. Alcohol-soaed cherries, herbal, floral. Full and plump with balancing tannins. You get the 15% alcohol and the pleasantly warm finish. 88

San Pedro
Croatian (by background) family owned, possessing 1,200 hectares of vineyard land.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Cabo de Hornos
The Cabo de Hornos Biosphere Reserve is located in the extreme south of Chile, comprising marine areas, islands and forested coast. Fruit for this red comes from Curico Valley. Aged for 18 months in 80% new French oak. Blackcurrant, mint and spice. Medium to full with well integrated oak. It has vigorous, dusty tannins. Needs time. 89

2007 Sauvgnon Blanc Castillo de Molina
Elqui Valley fruit. Pungent, into-your-face NZ style. Great, natural acidity here and neat mineral tones on the finish. Very good. 88

Valdivieso
First sparkling wine producing winery in S. America. Started making still wines in 1980. Winemaker from N. Zealand who hates corporate training and such...so do I! Total production per year is 700,000 cases.

NV Blanc de Blanc
With 10% Pinot Noir blended despite designation. Champagne-like bouquet and palate, toasty, toffee, floral with Pinot adding some red berry nuances. Great sparkler. 89

2005 Eclat
"Eclat" = explosion, surprise, lightning. Blend of Carignan, Mourvedre and Syrah. Raspberry, floral, spicy, earthy, musky. Dry with a great personality and character. Made from 80 years old (bush) vines. 90

NV Caballo Loco
Blend of wines coming from different vintages, Solera style. Cabernets, Malbec, Carmenere and Merlot, blend depending on vintage and the mood of winemaker. Well structured and balanced, can age. 90

2007 Pinot Gris
Single vineyard. Peach blossom and nectarines. Medium bodied with light oily texture, great acidity and peachy finish. 89

2007 Malbec
Raspberry, red plum, blueberry, floral. Full and with plush tannins. Very good! 89

Cono Sur
Owned by Concha Y Toro. Cono Sur label design suggesting the shape of the South American continent. Main variety is Pinot Noir here. They practice biodynamic farming as well, which seems to enjoy growing popularity across Chile.

2007 Pinot Noir Vision
Grapes are from Colchagua. Red berries and menthol. Light and fresh with spicy finish. 87

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon 20 Barrels
Cherry berry fruit, chocolate and botanical garden aromas. A well made, juicy and very enjoyable red. 88

Cousino Macul
Their offices are in the original building of winery est. in 1856, nowadays considered a historic site, located just by the outskirts of Santiago. Hands-on family operation with just about 250,000 cases of wine produced per year. ...And I do not seem to find my wine notes... Lo siento...

Santa Rita
Santa Rita is the saint of impossible things. There's a church on the estate built by original owner as a gift for his daughter, so she could mary in it, but I don't think it worked out because apparently there's a female ghost living in their estate hotel. She is one of those jealous babe types as well, who bothers young couples on their nuptials, that sort of thing.

2004 Floresta
100% Apalta Cabernet Sauvignon. Blueberry, cassis, black raspberry, mint. Fine tannins and warm finish. 90

2007 Sauvignon Blanc Medalla Real
Tropical, lime and mineral nose. Vibrant acidity and a long citrus, mineral, herbal finish. A "real" good one! 89

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Medalla Real
Made from 25 years old vines. Full, ripe with sweet tannins. Good value too! Just below $20. 89

Santa Carolina
Owner also is principal to large Chilean food store chain. They own vineyards in Mendoza, Argentina as well. It's a pretty big winery with 2,5 million cases of wine production.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia
Grapes come from the northern area of Maipo. Cassis, mocha, vanilla, leather and black truffle. Concentrated with ageworthy tannic structure. Superb value for $18! 90

2006 VSC
Cassis, plums, tar and beet. Smooth, sweet fruit and oak packed. It has notable (sex) appeal. 90

Undurraga
Winery changed hands 2 years ago and new owner is Jose Yuraszeck, one of the most important biz personalities of Chile. The country's most celebrated winemaker, Alvaro Espinosa is consultant here. They produce a line of wine, the sacred tree label, from which certain profits of sell go to a foundation called OIES to help Mapuche youth (aboriginals of Chile, a brave culture, but somewhat forgotten nowadays, living in the Southern parts of the country) in education. Their TH tier of wines are very good, so is the concept and ideology behind label. "TH" = Terroir Hunter (that explains it all). They also have a provocative sparkling wine program. But they might want to change the descriptor "Champagne" on labels, brochures and literature...

2007 Sauvignon Blanc TH
Grapes come from nowadays very much "in vogue" Leyda Valley. Tropical fruit, sweet herbs and spices, mineral mint, even Chile pepper aromas. Intense palate and persistent finish. 88

2005 Altazor
100% Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon. Impressive nose of black fruits, plums, deep spices and cacao dust. Bold and concentrated with a very long finish with structured tannins coming at late palate. Will age well. 90

2005 Founder's Cabernet Sauvignon
Red berry driven bouquet with spicy, floral, wild forrest accents. Full and chewy with ripe tannins and lasting finish. 89

2006 Syrah TH
Made from Maipo grapes. Black cherry, smoke, earth, morel mushroom, cardamom, roast meat and mocha aromas. Full bodied with integrated, sweet tannins and a long, spicy plums finish. 89

Vina Casablanca

2007 Sauvignon Blanc Nimbus
Lime, mint, mineral, pink grapefruit, honeydew melon and aloe vera aromas. Crisp with intense and elevated flavours and lime pulp, minera finish. Very good! 90

2006 Chardonnay El Bosque
Sweet nose of pear, tropical fruit, vanilla oak. Medium bodied with creamy mango flavours, great acidity (no malo) and pleasant, lingering finish. 89

2007 Pinot Noir Nimbus
Red and black cherry berry fruit, morel and some intriguing funk notes on its nose. Medium bodied, fresh and with soft tannins. Will round out nicely in a year or so. 88

Casa Lapostolle
Visited Clos Apalta and was blown away! State-of-the-art facility built right into the mountain! Whatever money can buy! So much flair here! Some of the wines justify that approach.

2005 Clos Apalta
Carmenere and Merlot based. Concentrated and complex, black currant, raspberry, mint, floral, chocolate, orange zest, herbal, dried chanterelle and sweet oak aromas and flavours. Full bodied and with silky tannins. The finish is long and warm and raspberry preserve-like. Impressive! 92

2006 Cabernet Cuvee
A big wine, hot and tannicky with lots of ripe fruit flavours. Cellar it! 90

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Read more of Zoltan's wine notes here. Visit Zoltan's website here.