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Joshna Maharaj on Beets,
Toronto, October 2005,
Gremolata Update 045,

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Joshna Maharaj is a Resident Chef and Instructor at Dish Cooking Studio in Toronto.

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For Beet’s Sake!

Behold, the glorious beet. Crisp and sweet, with a brilliant stain of purpley-red. Beets have been around for thousands of years, yet remain one of the most disliked of all vegetables. I find this collective distaste of beets quite curious, and was prompted to do some further research, convinced that the beet is just a victim of bad PR.

I did a Google search on “I hate beets”, and came up with 140 000 hits, the majority of which were actual testimonies from people who really do hate beets. But who hates vegetables enough to write about it? Well, apparently, thousands of people. I read through a handful of these hits, and discovered that although fresh beets are readily available, most of the Google haters have eaten beets from a can, which, in my opinion, is probably why they hate them so much. Come on, people…you’ve got to know that canned vegetables have virtually no nutritional value, and are not nearly an adequate example of their raw relative. I am here in defence of the beet, and to hopefully encourage a few converts.

To all you haters out there, indulge me for the next few paragraphs, and read on about the under loved beet.

The beet is thought to have originated in prehistoric times in North Africa and grew wild along Asian and European seashores. There do exist recipes for preparing beets dating back to the Greeks and Romans, who were the first to cultivate the plant for human consumption. These recipes, however only used the greens for medicinal purposes, and left the “scarlet nether parts” of the beet for their epicurean successors in 2 and 3 AD to pronounce as delicious. As Rome was invaded, the consumption of beets spread from the Mediterranean, to Russia, Europe and the Arab world. Early writings have been found which claim numerous healing properties of the beet, including the cure of tuberculosis, scurvy and toothaches, and as an insecticide. The bulbous red meat of today’s beet is relatively new on the scene, dating back to only about the 17th century. Curiously enough, Russian women, both peasant and aristocracy used the rich pigment of the beet as a blush for their cheeks…to deter mosquitoes, and attract the opposite sex.

How did our predecessors eat their beets, you ask? Usually pickled, in a vinegary brine. The Russians boiled or roasted, and pureed beets, giving the characteristic purple hue to a traditional borscht. What many people don’t realize is that beets can be treated like any other root vegetable. There is an incredible sweetness in them that caramelizes beautifully when roasted like potatoes or carrots. When roasting beets, you have two options: you can pierce them, washed and unpeeled, wrap tightly with foil and roast in the oven for about 1½ hours until a knife slides through easily. When cooled and peeled, this method is perfect for salads or cold side dishes. Otherwise you can peel the raw beets, chop into even-sized pieces, toss with lots of olive oil, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, and roast in a single layer, at a high heat until tender and slightly crisp.

While we often think of beets as bright, and reddish-purple, some varieties are white, golden-yellow or even rainbow coloured. The sweetness of beets reflects their high sugar content, which makes them an important raw material for the production of refined sugar. No kidding! Interestingly enough, while they have the highest sugar content of all vegetables, they are still very low in calories: one cup of cooked beets holds approximately 70 calories, and is a good source of potassium and vitamin C.

Speaking of nutrition, listen to this: Beets contain powerful nutrient compounds that help protect against heart disease, birth defects and certain cancers, especially colon cancer. The pigment that gives beets their rich, purple-crimson colour (betacyanin) is also a powerful cancer-fighting agent.

In a study of beet fiber-fed animals, an increase in protective antioxidant activity was reported, as well as a drop in total cholesterol and triglycerides, and an increase in HDL (beneficial cholesterol). And if this isn’t enough to get you running to the market, beets are also rich in the B vitamin folate, which is essential for normal tissue growth. Eating folate-rich foods is especially important during pregnancy to promote the proper development of the infant's spinal column.

So you see, dear reader, this flavour and nutritional powerhouse is indeed worth a second taste. If you are among the throngs of beet haters, I urge you to give it another go. Get your hands on some fresh beets, they’re in peak season now, and are marvellously sweet and tender. You’ll need a pair of gloves to prevent that bold pigment from dyeing your hands, and I’d recommend doing any chopping on a plastic cutting board, which can be put through the dishwasher.

Below I have included a recipe for roasted beets and carrots with a honey balsamic glaze. I promise, the tender crisp sweetness of that lovely purple wedge will be worth the effort.

Roasted Beets & Carrots with a Honey Balsamic Glaze
(Serves 4 - click here for text/easy-print version.)

INGREDIENTS:
3 large beets, washed, peeled and cut into even-sized wedges
4-5 large carrots, washed, peeled, and cut into ½-inch slices on the bias
olive oil
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
½ cup liquid honey
½ cup balsamic vinegar

METHOD:
1. Preheat oven to 400F. Combine beets and carrots in two separate bowls, and toss with a liberal amount of olive oil, salt and pepper. Arrange on parchment-lined baking sheets and roast for 20-30 minutes, until tender, browned and slightly crisp.

2. In a small bowl, combine honey and balsamic vinegar. Set aside. When vegetables are done, remove from oven and allow to cool slightly. Combine beets and carrots in a mixing bowl, and drizzle with glaze. Stir gently to combine. Taste and re-season as necessary.

 

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