Lorette C. Luzajic
Even Better Than The Real Thing
By Lorette C. Luzajic
Deep Blue Fish and Chips
749 Broadview Ave.
416.463.6789
www.deepbluefish.ca
I highly doubt that most counter cooks dream happily of being at work when they aren’t there. But Deep Blue Sea’s Gary Conlin is not your average fish and chips guy. And he does not make average fish and chips.
Everybody loves the greasy, wonderful crunchy grime of fish and chips, smothered in vinegar and insane amounts of salt, slathered in lumpy mayo and relish that passes for tartar, with ketchup and oil leaking through the newspaper bundle. But universal love aside, the local fish and fries eatery is not exactly a gourmand’s destination.
And nor is it the destination of those sorry masses who must avoid gluten, hence battered fish, at all costs. I didn’t think I would ever have fish and chips again, since learning last March that the culprit behind all my teeth falling out and other fun diseases is gluten.
So you’d think I would be overjoyed when I heard about Deep Blue Sea’s gluten-free fish and chips, the only fare of its kind in Toronto, and possibly far and wide. Still, I’ve found so far that substitutions are seldom any cause for excitement or celebration, and unlike most of the gluten-free chatters online, I do not live by substitution. I don’t like the breads, the cookies, their density or flavour, and I don’t think I need to replace an unhealthy grain with other starches when I can fill up on vitamin-loaded vegetables, meats, and fish. As poster child for the beyond curvy girl Plus Generation, I’m not exactly starving for breads. Besides, if you’ve ever tried the gluten free pizzas, available at Pizza Pizza and Magic Oven, you wouldn’t be impressed. They’re okay, but usually I forego pizza and make grilled veggie melt at home if I have to have some gooey cheese.
But sometimes a craving hits, and when it did, I headed to Broadview and Danforth. I’ve walked by a million times without knowing I could go in. But I did some research hoping to find gluten-free fish batter in Toronto, and by chance, the only option was just down the street. I was greeted by Gary, the owner and cook. Now here’s a man who loves his fish! He wants to talk about his menu, about how his fish can make you happy. This is a man who wants to be at work, sharing his favourite stuff in life with you. This is no ordinary fish and chips place. This is a place where you can get mango pickle relish for your sweet potato fries. You can get Jamaican-jerk battered fish and grilled asparagus salad with balsamic dressing. The cole slaw could be Granny Smith apple slivers. Then again, it might be tropical fruits and veggies in a tangy mango sauce. You might forego the grease, too, in favour of fresh fish chowder, piping hot, and a side of green pea hummus.
Gary Conlin and Robert Joseph, owners, say their objective is simple: to provide local communities with consistently high quality fish and chips. I’d say they go above and beyond, offering up scrumptious stuff like Deep Blue Corn Meal Battered Sea Scallops, or Crab Cake Sandwich with Roasted Red Pepper Aioli, Lettuce, Sweet Potato Fries, Celery Root & Apple Cole Slaw. Or you might try the Cajun Corn Battered Haddock, Spicy Fries, Cole Slaw, with Creole Salsa. All greasy fare is fried in soy-free, trans-fat free oil. Hungry?
The big question is, how was it? It was unbelievable! Spectacular! The quinoa-flour gluten-free alternative is fried in a separate batch of oil, so no contamination worries. This was the best fish and chips I ever had. The texture was crunchier and less oily than anything else, far superior to every fish and chips I’ve ever tried. The homemade tartar was something I could eat by itself with a spoon if no one was looking. The handcut French fries are worth the trip all by themselves. And on top of all this amazing food, the diner is clean and cutesy and would make for a great snack stop on your next date. Indeed, Deep Blue has a date special that includes two fish and chip meals with movie passes for the Rainbow Cinema.
I don’t need to go on. Get on your scuba gear and swim over to Broadview as quickly as your little flippers can get you here. Let Gary share his food stories and help you choose something you won’t forget. You’ll be back soon.
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