Lorette C. Luzajic
Stratengers at Queen and Leslie
By Lorette C. Luzajic
This sprawling behemoth is the local watering hole for east-enders. Film types, serial daters, and down-to-earth east side queers mingle cheerily with heavy metal enthusiasts, heavy smokers, and hockey aficionados.
The patio fence provides a place for Fido to join in the fun. The unpretentious and unhurried enjoy a variety of classic and microbrewery treats alongside harder drinkers who line the bar and spill their stories to the down-home hotties who serve them.
Outsiders strolling past can’t tell that this two-patio, two-storey casual destination spot also has some of the best food in Toronto, and that’s too bad- heading to a pricier, uppity Leslieville destination for dibs may well be disappointing. The breakfast and brunch fare is rivaled only by Okay-Okay across the street, and they are never open so the choice is clear. The pizza has been voted Best Pizza on Queen Street, and that says a great deal considering a zillion pizza spots line the trendier west stretch of Queen. Lovingly perfected in a wood fire oven, the gourmet pies are worth a drive over even if you’re in another part of town.
Strats is suitably dim and dingy for a post-breakup drowning with house jewel Jessie handing over the tequila shots and delivering brew in giant frosted glasses. This gorgeous Georgia peach is actually Irish and often wears green accordingly, and her tough yet tender attention is everything you can ask for in this topsy-turvy world. Once she hands over your Gourmet American slices, oddly topped with tandoori chicken, prosciutto and bocconcini cheese, you’ll be planning the rest of your week around Stratengers’ menu.
You can’t beat the homemade burgers and fries or poutine, either, but patrons return for the unexpected excellence of the Indian-style fare that dominates the second half of the selection. Stratengers never followed the idea of focusing the menu on one outstanding feature- instead, this unassuming mess hall serves up India, North America and Italian with equal aplomb. Snack fare takes you until midnight with satisfying jalapeño poppers or garlic dip with naan if you’ve no room for pizza. The nachos might be the only miss on a menu of hits.
Don’t expect to rush- at times Jessie and friends are serving a huge crowd and you’ll wait your turn (though your draft will be in hand). That’s your chance to converse with friendly locals and yokels on the heated patio upstairs in cooler weather or enjoy the season’s sunshine on a shaded patio at the side. Other times you’ll be at the only occupied table in the joint and marvel at the speed of light service. Stratengers is truly a landmark institution, pairing gourmet edibles and classic pub fare with your liquid lunch. Once you find them, neither the pricier nor the divier establishments nearby will have a chance in hell.
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