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Washed Rind Cheeses
By Andy Shay
Long before I knew that there was such a thing as washed rind
cheese, I was a great appreciator of those stinky things. I think that my first
real experience was in Versailles in the early spring of 1991 when I was
visiting my new girlfriend (now wife, Meredith) who was on exchange in Paris.
Syracuse (my home at the time) was adrift in snow and the weather in Paris was
cool, but sunny and full of the hope of spring. One day, we visited Versailles
and on the way to the palace, from the train, we ran across an open air market.
We bought a baguette, a saucisson and a magnificent stinking cheese. After a
tour of the palace we rented a row boat and had a picnic in the warming sun on
la grand canal. The whole day was stupendous, but I still vividly remember the
creamy texture and the pungent burnt asparagus flavour…Oh la la!
Washed rind cheeses were first produced by monks in France, probably around
600AD. After being formed, the cheeses are let to sit for several days and then
are brushed with salt or washed with a brine solution and turned every day or
second day. The brushing and washing remove unwanted mold and allowed certain
bacteria to grow on or and transform the cheese. In addition to the salt or
brine solution, some cheeses are also washed with beer, a liquor or aperitif.
This spirit is usually a local product and lends a non-boozy edge to the cheese.
Recipes for cheeses like Munster and Maroilles have been perfected for a period
of over 1000 years!
The Bacteria of the washed rind process often produces a pungent aroma, but
hiding beneath the aroma is usually a delicate (especially considering the
smell), but extremely complex flavour.
Washed rind cheeses need to breath, they host both aerobic and anerobic
bacteria. When the cheese is deprived of oxygen, the anerobic bacteria multiply
out of proportion and the cheese quickly becomes bitter. Wrap in waxed paper and
store in a zip lock bag - but do not squeeze the air out. This storage system
also helps contain the aroma. Leave small factory packaged cheeses in the
original wrapping.
Thanks in part to Quebec’s history with the Catholic church and its monasteries
and new European immigrants drawn to the lush pastures and high quality milk -
Canada has a tradition of making washed rind cheeses and an interest in
developing new ones. The most well known of these cheeses is Oka, but there are
many others that are waiting to be discovered. I don’t promise you will be
transported to la grand canal, but I do promise that your mouths will be opened
to a new world of unforgettable flavour.
Here are some washed rind cheeses that you might try as an introduction:
Pied-de-Vent - Produced on the Ile-de-la-Madeline in Quebec. A lovely, delicate,
soft cheese. (See Gremolata's feature on Pied-de-Vent here.) Available at Whole
Foods, Alex Farms and Cheese Boutique.
Cru-des Erable - Laurentians, Quebec. Produced in the middle of a maple farm and
washed with a locally made maple liquor. Just a hint of maple flavour, can
become very strong as it ages. Available at Alex Farms.
Cantonnier - Warwick, Quebec. An extremely well balanced cheese. Available at
Whole Foods and cheese boutique.
Sir Laurier - Warwick Quebec. For the best flavour, hold this cheese right to
the use by date before opening. Available at Whole Foods and some Loblaws.
Reblochon - France, Look for the words Fermier and Lait Cru on the label and a
red wax mark on the cheese for the best examples. Available at Whole Foods, Alex
Farms and Cheese Boutique
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