Discussions
Robert Clark and Vancouver's OceanWise
By Noelle Munaretto
OceanWise Chefs: Tobey Nemeth and Jamie Kennedy welcome Robert Clark
On Wednesday May 7, Chef Robert Clark of Vancouver's C Restaurant led a seminar in Toronto on the sustainable fishing program, Ocean Wise. Held at the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, the event featured Clark and Ocean Wise co-coordinator Mike McDermid. Together they introduced the mostly trade benefits of ethical, sustainable fishing and their homegrown BC program.
Tobey Nemeth, Chef de Cuisine at JFK wine bar, and Jamie Kennedy organized the visit. What Clark originally envisioned as "a beer-soaked chat" about Ocean Wise with his Hogtown chef buddies, turned into a full PowerPoint presentation before a large audience of the city's top chefs, caterers and restaurateurs, including the Air Canada Centre's Brad Long and C5's Ted Corrado.
Started by the Vancouver Aquarium in 2005, Ocean Wise seeks to promote methods of fishing that cause the least environmental and biological damage to the species and their natural habitats. Together with local restaurants they help create menus that offer sustainable seafood choices - the dishes made easily identifiable with a specific Ocean Wise logo.
A 2006 report in the journal Science pointed out that in 2048 a global fishery collapse will occur if we continue to exploit the sea at today's current rate. That means unless we start to vary the types of seafood we eat, favourites such as salmon and tuna will become obsolete. In fact, just about everything from mussels to whales will be in serious danger.
With research showing North Americans eat 68% of our seafood at restaurants, McDermid pointed out that chefs could also play a huge role in determining future seafood consumption patterns. "Chefs have the ability to change traditional tastes," he said, adding that chefs like Clark can make a positive impact by buying from ecologically sound fisheries.
C Restaurant was one of the first establishments to work directly with the Ocean Wise group, and Clark's menu was an instant hit. With all seafood choices 100% Ocean Wise, his diners were introduced to ocean-friendly species instead of the typical seafood varieties now finding their way onto endangered lists. Clark continues to support local fisheries, safe fishing practices, and farmed-fish options in Vancouver. Now he brings his success story to Toronto as a way of teaching more chefs to understand the story behind their seafood.
"I would encourage everyone to get engaged with where their food comes from," said Clark. "The options are there and it's just a matter of finding them."
As a self-professed "ambassador of sustainable seafood" Clark admits that he first encountered resistance from Vancouver fisheries when he embarked on the Ocean Wise program. "Suppliers didn't want to deal with what I demanded," he said. "We were alone… we were alone for a very long time."
But Clark, stubborn as he is passionate, made the program work financially. "Quality doesn't necessarily mean more money," he said. During his presentation Clark made it equally clear that chefs, consumers and more importantly, our federal government, simply must do better when it comes to protecting the nation's underwater environment.
The Ocean Wise program recommends seafood varieties that are based on the following four criteria:
1) Results in limited bycatch
2) Resilient to fishing pressure such as overfishing
3) Backed by a strong fishery management plan based on current scientific studies
4) Harvested in ways that do not damage the species' aquatic environment
These recommendations, when met, result in a ‘sustainable' classification. Items like Pacific Sardines, Dungeness crab, farmed mussels/scallops/oysters, and Sablefish all fit the Ocean Wise bill. Atlantic cod, Chilean sea bass, Orange roughy and Swordfish along with many others, do not. Sustainable options can also vary depending on the area you live in, so regional seafood guides are made available to help chefs and consumers.
At the start of 2008, the Ocean Wise program counted 120 participating members with new members continually signing up. Restaurants must remove one non-sustainable item from their menu and exchange it for a sustainable Ocean Wise option to be part of the program.
Through his partnership with Ocean Wise, Clark has made it cool for top chefs to support sustainable fishing. Not only has he created an acclaimed restaurant, but his menu also shows that you can promote safe aquatic practices without sacrificing originality or taste.
For more on Ocean Wise visit www.vanaqua.org/oceanwise/
For additional information on sustainable seafood see also www.seachoice.org
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