Discussions
Rhubarb
By Noelle Munaretto
"Eternal happiness is a rhubarb tart. A rhubarb what? A rhubarb tart!" - John Cleese
As we continue further into the month of May, the spring harvest gives way to tart celery-like stalks of rhubarb. The most common varieties of this plant are marked by a vibrant red hue, but rhubarb also comes in speckled pink or even green varieties which can be much sweeter than their reddish counterparts. Either way, rhubarb is soon to be in abundance at the local grocery stores, and on trendy restaurant menus around the city. It is even rumoured that Ontario soil produces some of the world's finest rhubarb varieties.
Whenever I grab a fresh bunch of rhubarb from the market, I'm suddenly transported back to the summer cottage we used to share with close family friends. Nestled in a 15-foot, weed-laden garden bed were mountains of overgrown rhubarb plants. At least once a week we would harvest the blushing stalks, mix them with local strawberries, liberally douse with sugar and stuff the mixture in between two crusts of perfect pastry. Once out of the oven the heavenly aroma could even be detected from the dock. Today, the cottage of my childhood days has since been sold, but the rhubarb plant lives on in our friend's backyard, where it continues to meet its pie fate.
Though many people, including my extended family, believe that the use of rhubarb is restricted to sweet dishes, rhubarb's natural zing actually pairs well with certain savoury ingredients. The plant also has an interesting history dating back thousands of years. Here's Gremolata's guide about everything rhubarb to get you ready for the succulent crops heading our way.
History
A member of the buckwheat family, a cousin of the celery, and a close relative of the perennial herb sorrel, rhubarb's varied lineage made it a plant of considerable interest to ancient horticulturalists. The plant dates back to roughly 2700 BC, and has its origins in countries such as Tibet and China, where it was used strictly for medicinal purposes. Rhubarb was prized for its digestive-aiding abilities since it has laxative and colon-cleansing properties. Ruling emperors also coveted these supposedly miraculous stalks.
It was the British who first started experimenting with rhubarb in the kitchen - incidentally yielding delicious results. The first rhubarb recipe appeared in 1783, in The London Art of Cookery, where author James Farley suggesting cooking it with gooseberries. Rhubarb later made its way into American soil in the early eighteenth century and has since been a staple for spring and summer cuisine.
Composition
The rhubarb plant is composed of three main parts: the root, the stalk or ‘petiole' and oversized leaves. Even though it's often mistaken as a fruit because of its reddish colour, rhubarb is actually a vegetable. And, a part of this veggie packs a mean poisonous punch. The leaves contain high amounts of oxalate, a poisonous crystalline acid, which can cause throat irritation, burning in the mouth, and respiratory problems even when consumed in small amounts. Though the stalks also contain oxalate, amounts found there are considerably lower and don't cause a reaction. When preparing rhubarb make sure to remove all of the green leaves and roots, leaving behind only the thick stalks that you should wash thoroughly.
Purchasing and Planting
When shopping for rhubarb look for sturdy, spot-free stalks that don't hang limp. Most mainstream grocery stores carry the red-stalked Macdonald and Canada Red varieties, but local farmers' markets will often showcase different hybrid varieties such as Ruby, Valentine, Prince Albert, Victoria and German Wine that are both unconventional and yummy. If you are buying rhubarb with the leaves still attached also make sure that they look bright and non-wilted, as it is a sign of rhubarb past its prime.
Rhubarb begins sprouting in early spring and is best enjoyed through to early summer. The plant is also a hearty breed that does well in most home gardens, though first-time rhubarb growers will have to wait a year before their first harvest. (For more information on growing rhubarb in your own garden click here).
Storing
Rhubarb doesn't keep much longer than a week in the fridge, where it should be stored in a plastic bag and consumed within a few days of purchase. Make sure you remove any blemishes, roots, and leaves beforehand. Freezing rhubarb is also a great way to keep it handy for cooking. Just cut the stalks in half, place in a plastic bag, and the pieces will last up to six months in the freezer.
Culinary Uses
Since rhubarb is such a tart vegetable, the best way to offset the lip-puckering flavour is to add some sort of sweet ingredient, such as sugar, when cooking it. Try combining rhubarb with other seasonal fruits in a crisp, tart or pie. Rhubarb is also a welcome addition in cake, pancake or muffin batters. Even a simple and sweet rhubarb sauce (recipe below) can be stirred into fruit smoothies, or spooned over vanilla bean ice cream.
For savoury applications, experiment by pairing rhubarb with ginger or nutmeg. Turn it into rich chutney or serve it braised, alongside duck breast.
Fun Facts
- Two cups of fresh, diced rhubarb contain over 20% your daily vitamin C requirement
- Rhubarb leaves can be made into an organic insecticide
- Hair dye can be made by boiling rhubarb roots
- You can clean your pots and pans with rhubarb
- In baseball, ‘rhubarb' often refers to a dugout brawl with an umpire or fans.
Comments